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Of Wick Parish
ECCLESIASTICAL REMAINS OF WICK PARISH
L. J. Myatt
name Wick is Norse in origin, being derived from the Old Norse vik,
meaning “a (little) bay”. In 1140 the name Vik appears and in 1455
Weke (Johnston 1892). By 1530 the spelling had changed to Wik and in
1561 to Weik. The present name Wick is recorded in 1630 and also appears
on the map of Blaeu in 1642; (Innes 1841-45).
Within the parish are
known the locations of six sites of the early church, a further two are
reported to have existed in the town of Wick and a ninth one, which is
somewhat doubtful, in Keiss. These are listed in the following table.
Although, in some cases, sufficient remains are evident to give a reasonably accurate alignment of the axis, in no case is it possible to establish a definite plan. Approximate dimensions, where possible, are given for individual sites but only excavation can reveal the true details, since surface evidence, at the best, only shows the outline of turf covered foundations.
A number of large stones appear to be set in the ground at intervals around the boundary of the site, and also the remains of other structures are visible within the boundary. A few metres north-west of the chapel is a circular mound with a number of small stones set in the ground on both sides of a circular foundation open on the east side. The outer diameter has been about 4.10m with a possible wall thickness of 0.90m.
To the south-west of the chapel are visible two sides of a rectangular depression in the ground.
Macfarlane (1, p. 60) refers to this chapel as the “Chapel of Haulster called St. Cuthberts Church” and states that the common people bury their dead about it.
A field sketch of the site is given in MacDonald & Laing (1967 –8) indicating the chapel and other groups of buildings or enclosures to the north and south of it.
The rectangular turf-covered outline of the chapel is still in evidence and appears to have had the approximate dimensions of 3m x 7.5m.
The dedication is to St. Duthac who is the patron saint of Tain, and who died in about 1065. Writing in 1726, Macfarlane (1, p.160), the Rev. James Oliphant, parish minister of Wick , says,
“from the town of Wick to the NW stands Killiminster at two miles distance, where of old stood the mansion house of the Bishops of Cathnesse. There is one remarkable story takes notice of by some of our historians that the last bishop who resided there was boil’d to death in a cauldron by the orders of the then Earle of Cathnesse, it stands upon the east side of the great flow moss two miles large in breadth and in the middle of it, there is a chapel called St> Dudoch’s Kirk by the commons, of very difficult access at any time of the year, by reason of the flow”.
There would appear to be some confusion here with the story of the burning of Bishop Adam at Halkirk.
In the New Statistical Account written in 1840 it is stated:-
“Till within a few years, it was customary for all the inhabitants of Mirelandhorn to visit the Kirk of Moss every Christmas before sunrise, placing on a stone, bread and cheese and a silver coin, which as they allege, disappeared in some mysterious way.”
This stone apparently used to stand in the middle of the Burn of Killiminster.
Traditionally the site is monastic and Macdonald & Laing (1967-8) confirm this possibility.
The fair of Killiminster used to be held on the first Tuesday in March.
Writing after his visit to Caithness in 1762, Bishop Forbes describes the chapel as having windows only in the south wall and being constructed with stone and mortar but without any lime. At this time it was roofless but the walls were almost complete, and the baptismal font lay on the green at the east end of the chapel. By 1861 Muir (1885) states that “not a vestige of the building remains”.
The dedication is variously ascribed to St. tears, Tayr, Tay, Ere, and Aire. The origin of this dedication is somewhat obscure, as a result of which various explanations have been offered. Bishop Forbes relates that in 1762 it was the custom of people to assemble there on the morning of the feast of the Holy Innocents and pray, bringing with them offerings of bread, cheese, and money which were put into holes in the walls. The afternoon then followed with dancing to music provided by a piper and fiddler.
Holy Innocents day is 28th December, and the explanation of the dedication offered in the Inventory is that it is transferred in Roman church times from as earlier Celtic dedication to St. Airerain or Ereran whose feast day is 29th December.
The Rev. A.B. Scott (1926) attributes the dedication of St. Trostan and suggests that the name “Tayre” or “Tear” is a corruption of the name of the mother church at Deer in Aberdeenshire. He also points out that the name of the early Christian settlement at Deerness in Orkney. Until after the reformation the name was “Deare” or “Diere” in Aberdeenshire and “Tayre” in Caithness. The name “Deere” may derive from the der or der, being the oakgrove with religious connection where pagan rites were celebrated. It was the known policy of the early Christian missionaries to use the sacred pagan sites as places to build their churches which were often of timber from the oaks which grew around them. In Old British the Der-tig was the house of prayer, and in early Irish it was the Dertaig or Derteach. Thus the deri or der of the pagan Celts became the Christian place of worship of the early missionaries, and hence we find the name Deer.
In the early 15th century the chapel was the scene of a battle between Clan Gunn and Clan Keith as described by Gordon (1639 p.92),
“After some dissention between the Kaithes and the Clangun, there was a meitting appointed for ther reconciliation at the chappell of St. Tayr in Catteynes, not far from Girnigo, where they should meitt, with tuelve hors on either syd. The Cruner, then chieftane of the Clangun, with the most pairt of his sons and principall kinsmen, came at the appointed tyme to this chappell at ther prayers, the Laird of Innervgie and Ackerigell arrived ther, with tuelve hors, and tuo men upon everie hors. So these tuentie-four men rushed in at the door of the chappell, and invaded the Cruner and his company at vnawars, who nevertheless made great resistance. In the end, the Clangun wer slain, and the most part of the Kaithes also. Ther blood may be seen at this day upon the walls within the chappell,where they wer killed”.
Calder (1887 p.98) gives another version of this battle as having taken place at Strathmore.
Beaton (1909) mentions evidence of a burial ground surrounding the chapel, although this is not now evident. Nearby the OS map indicates Mary Ford crossing the Wick River. The baptismal font, believed to come from this chapel, is now at Stirkoke House.
It was stated in 1732 in the Wick Kirk-session records that the chapel was used as a place of certain superstitious practices on the first Sunday after the new moon when it was visited by the common people who would bow and kneel about the building.
In the surrounding burial ground are a number of old tombstones now very much overgrown. The Pictish symbol stone, known as the Ulbster stone, now in Thurso museum, at one time stood in this burial ground.
Auld (1868 p.4) states that by tradition a Danish princess lies buried here and that a stone marks the place having some illegible characters on it.
article was first published in the Caithness Field Club bulletin of
Full list of Bulletins now published on Caithness.org